How to Choose a Motorcycle Helmet That Fits Properly

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Let’s be honest: most of us have bought at least one motorcycle helmet for the exact same reason we’ve bought a leather jacket—because it looked absolutely brilliant in the shop mirror.

Then you rode in it.

Twenty minutes later you’re developing a pressure point on your forehead that feels like someone is trying to tap out Morse code through your skull. The cheek pads are either crushing your face like a panini, or the whole thing wobbles at motorway speed like a fishbowl in a hurricane. And the worst part? You start “making it work” because you’ve already paid for it, and it matches your bike.

Here’s the truth: a helmet that fits properly is safer, quieter, less tiring, and more comfortable. It also makes you a better rider because you’re not constantly distracted by hot spots, wind noise, or a lid that shifts every time you shoulder-check.

So this is your no-fluff guide to choosing a helmet that fits your head—not just your aesthetic. We’ll cover sizing, head shape, how a helmet should feel, what to test in-store, and the common mistakes riders make (including the classic “it’ll break in” lie we tell ourselves).

Why helmet fit matters more than you think

A properly fitted helmet isn’t just about comfort. Fit affects:

Safety: In an impact, a loose helmet can rotate, shift, or come off. A snug helmet stays in place so the protective liner can do its job.
Stability at speed: A helmet that moves around creates buffeting, neck fatigue, and that unsettling feeling of “this doesn’t feel secure.”
Noise levels: Poor fit increases wind noise, which leads to fatigue and hearing damage over time (yes, even with a “premium” helmet).
Vision: If the helmet sits too high or shifts, your eye port alignment changes and your field of view suffers.
Concentration: Pressure points and discomfort steal your focus—exactly what you don’t want on a long ride or a technical road.

In short: cool is nice, but fit is functional cool. And functional cool keeps your brain sharp at the end of the day.

Step 1: Measure your head properly (don’t guess)

Before you even start trying helmets on, measure your head circumference. This takes 30 seconds and stops you from wasting an hour testing the wrong sizes.

How to measure:

Grab a soft tape measure (or string + ruler).
Wrap it around your head about 2 cm above your eyebrows and just above your ears, around the widest part at the back.
Keep it level and snug, not tight.
Note the measurement in centimetres—most helmet size charts use cm.

Now check the manufacturer’s size chart for the helmet you’re considering. Helmet sizing is not universal. A medium in one brand can be a small in another. Treat the label like a suggestion, not a verdict.

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Step 2: Know your head shape (this is where most people go wrong)

Two riders can measure the same circumference and still need totally different helmets because their head shapes differ.

Most heads fall into one of three broad shapes:

Round Oval: nearly equal front-to-back and side-to-side.
Intermediate Oval: slightly longer front-to-back (the most common).
Long Oval: noticeably longer front-to-back.

Why this matters:

If you wear a round-oval helmet but your head is long-oval, you’ll likely get pressure on the forehead. If you wear a long-oval helmet but your head is rounder, the helmet may feel tight on the sides but loose front-to-back—hello, wobble.

Quick DIY head-shape check:

Take a photo from above (or ask someone to).
Look at the outline of your head:
- more circular = round oval
- slightly egg-shaped = intermediate
- more stretched/egg-shaped = long oval

Brands often lean toward certain shapes. That’s why one rider swears by a particular brand and you try it on and feel like your skull is being judged.

Step 3: Understand how a helmet should feel when it’s new

Here’s the bit that saves you money: a new helmet should feel snug—firm, even pressure—without pain.

A proper fit feels:

snug all around the crown (top and sides)
secure at the cheeks
stable when you move your head
tight-ish at first (especially cheek pads), but not headache-tight

What it should not feel like:

sharp pressure points (forehead “hot spot,” temples, crown)
pain after a few minutes
loose movement when you shake your head
a “squishy” feeling where it’s tight on cheeks but loose on top

The “10-minute test”

Don’t just try it on for 30 seconds. Wear it in the shop for 10 minutes. Walk around. Look up, down, side to side.

If pain starts building, it won’t magically disappear on day three. Comfort can improve slightly with break-in—pressure points rarely do.

Step 4: Put the helmet on properly (yes, there’s a right way)

Helmets can feel “too small” just because you’re not putting them on correctly.

The correct way:

Hold the chin straps.
Pull the straps outward slightly to open the helmet.
Slide it on from front to back with a firm motion.

If you have to force it like you’re putting a sofa through a narrow doorway, it’s probably too small. If it slips on like a baseball cap, it’s definitely too big.

Step 5: Do the movement tests (the helmet should move your skin, not itself)

Once it’s on and fastened:

1) The shake test

Shake your head “no” and “yes.”

Your cheeks should move with the helmet.
The helmet should not rotate freely.
Your nose should not touch the chin bar (for full-face) when you push the helmet.

2) The roll-off test

With the strap fastened, try to roll the helmet forward off your head by pushing up at the back.

If it rolls off or comes close, it’s too big or the shape is wrong.

3) The crown test

Press down on the top.

It should feel evenly snug, not like there’s empty space above your head.

4) The eye-port check

Your eyes should sit comfortably within the eye port—good upward and sideways visibility without the helmet sitting too low or too high.

These simple tests do more than mirror selfies ever will.

Step 6: Cheek pads and “chipmunk face” are normal (to a point)

Many riders panic when cheek pads feel tight. But cheek pads break in slightly over time—usually about 5–10% depending on the materials.

New helmet cheek pads should be snug enough that you get a mild “chipmunk” look, but:

you should still be able to speak clearly
you should not be biting the inside of your cheeks constantly
it shouldn’t feel like your jaw is being pushed sideways

If your cheeks are snug but the top is loose, that’s often the wrong head shape (or wrong shell size).

Pro tip: Some helmets offer different cheek pad thicknesses. If the crown fits perfectly but cheeks are too tight/loose, swapping pads can fine-tune fit.

Step 7: Don’t confuse “tight” with “safe” (and don’t tolerate pain)

There’s a difference between:

snug, even pressure (good)
sharp, focused pain (bad)

If you feel a hotspot on the forehead or temples, stop and try a different model. A helmet can be the right size but the wrong internal shape.

Also, do not “size up” to avoid pressure points. A loose helmet that feels comfortable in the shop can become unstable at speed and unsafe in a crash.

Step 8: Choose the right type of helmet after you nail the fit

Fit comes first. Then decide the type that suits your riding:

Full-face: Best all-round protection, great for touring and daily riding.
Modular (flip-up): Convenient for commuters and tourers; slightly heavier, make sure the chin bar locks solidly.
Open-face: More airflow and visibility, less facial protection.
Off-road / ADV: Great ventilation and peak, often louder; goggles vs visor depends on model.

Whatever style you choose, the fit fundamentals don’t change.

Step 9: Safety standards matter (but they don’t replace good fit)

Look for helmets that meet recognised safety standards in your region (for UK/EU riders, you’ll see standards like ECE).

But here’s the key point: a certified helmet that fits badly is still a bad choice. Certification is the baseline; fit is what makes protection work as intended for your head.

Step 10: In-store checklist (save this on your phone)

When you’re trying helmets, run this quick checklist:

Fit

Snug, even pressure around crown (no gaps, no hotspots)
Cheeks snug but not painful
Helmet doesn’t rotate or wobble when fastened
Roll-off test: doesn’t shift forward off head
Eyes centred in the eye port

Comfort

No pressure pain after 10 minutes
No sore forehead/temples/crown
Chin bar clearance feels safe (full-face/modular)

Practical

Visor operation is easy with gloves
Vent controls are usable
Strap and buckle are easy to fasten securely
Fits with your glasses/sunglasses (if you wear them)
Works with your comms system (if you use one)

If it passes the checklist, then you’re allowed to judge it on looks.

Common helmet fit mistakes (and how to avoid them)

Mistake 1: Buying online without trying anything first

Online deals are tempting, but brand shapes vary so much that your “perfect size” might be wrong in half the market.

Fix: Try helmets in-store to identify brands/models that match your head shape, then buy smart (in-store or online) once you know what works.

Mistake 2: Choosing comfort over stability

A helmet that feels “immediately comfy” can be too big.

Fix: Prioritise snug fit and stability. Comfort should come from even pressure, not looseness.

Mistake 3: Ignoring pressure points

If it hurts in the shop, it’ll hurt more on a ride.

Fix: Walk away and try a different internal shape.

Mistake 4: Not fastening the strap properly

Fit testing with a loose strap is basically pointless.

Fix: Always fasten the strap for movement tests.

Mistake 5: Assuming one brand fits all their models

Even within a brand, fit can vary across ranges.

Fix: Test the specific model, not just the logo.

Conclusion: the best-looking helmet is the one you’ll actually wear

A properly fitting helmet is one of the best upgrades you can make—not because it adds horsepower, but because it adds confidence, comfort, and focus.

When your helmet fits:

you ride longer without fatigue
you hear less wind roar
you feel stable at speed
you’re not constantly adjusting it at traffic lights like a confused astronaut

And yes, it’ll still look cool—because a helmet that sits correctly and doesn’t wobble makes you look like you know what you’re doing.

So next time you’re shopping, do yourself a favour: pick fit first, style second. Your neck, your ears, and your future self will thank you.

If you found this guide useful, share it with a friend who buys helmets the way people buy sunglasses—based entirely on vibes. And keep an eye on MotorcycleJournals.com for more practical riding and gear guides that make motorcycling safer, easier, and more enjoyable.